Manufactured only between 1960 and 1966, the Seiko Goldfeather utilized a 18,000 bph, 17 or 25 movement that was and still is Seiko’s thinnest three-handed, manually-wound caliber—the 60M.
The Goldfeather was assembled and regulated by hand and was still labelled under Seiko’s old name,“Seikosha.” The assembly of this caliber was quite something, given its thinness of just 2.95mm. Compare that with Jaeger LeCoultre’s caliber 849 of the ‘90s which is 1.85mm thick. Seiko’s own thinnest caliber currently is the 6898 at 1.98 mm thick.
The 60M has a flower-shaped diashock absorber for its balance, a detail arguably indicating a higher-end movement compared to the absorbers seen in today’s 4R and 6R watches. (Flower-shaped diashock absorbers are currently inside modern Grand Seiko.)
Another point of pedigree are the serialized movement plates, generally indicative of extra testing and care being taken before being cased. Also, the large balance wheel sits on a full balance bridge rather than a balance cock. This is how Rolex constructs their ultra robust movements.
Despite its thinness, the Goldfeather caliber had a diameter of 27mm, which was well suited for casing that was relatively large for that era. This model weighs in at 36mm.
With gold-plated hands curving right at the end to match the dome of the dial –a typical high end detail, this is is quite desirable even today.
The dial of this model is also different from that of most other Goldfeathers. It is reminiscent of some sector dials one can find on vintage Omegas. There’s a middle portion of the dial that is raised above the outer ring where the hour markers are. To aid in time telling, each hour marker extends to the raised portion. In a dress watch as this one small details like this really count.
Being wide and flat, the watch is certainly very wearable today. It also helps of course that the bezel is exceedingly thin, which makes the radiant silver dial, and thus the watch, wear bigger.