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Grand Seiko 8J55-8010 SBGF005 (Sold)

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About Details and then some
Manufacture Seiko Grand Seiko
Model reference SBGF005 8J55-8010
Movement Quartz 5yr battery
Caliber 8J55 8010
Dial Mahogany Tatami with sunburst!
Case 36x42x10mm Steel
Lugs 18mm
Bracelet Leather See strap options below 
Crystal serial # Unknown Sapphire double domed
Timegrapher Accuracy:+0,3spd
Jewels 9
Serial # 4Dxxxx Production: 2004-12
Condition Mint
Service Ultrasonic Cleaning
Box & Papers No box No papers

Grand Seiko SBGF and the 8J movement in general was produced from 1996 to the end of 2011, with model SBGF029 alone representing the caliber from 2009 onward, as far as can be established. Different models saw the light of day but all were eliminated in 2009, sadly they were not produced in the same numbers in all years, as the other calibers like 9F. Some models are therefore pretty rare these days.

Grand Seiko reference SBGF, exclusive for the 8J movement, was produced from 1996 to 2011 with thirteen models representing the line. It is considered within Seiko to be one of the best quartz movements, much better than the well known 9F and much more stable and accurate. It was expensive to produce and parts of the design made it hard to fit into thinner cases. The more cost effective 9F movement on the other hand is less stable, not so resistant to temperature and magnetic fields and costs about 30 percent less to produce than the 8J. But, importantly, it is thinner, and uses more common parts, therefore the frame can be used for a number of other movements and watches.

The 8J is, without a doubt, the most robust high accuracy quartz movement ever made. Even the fact that it had to be thicker works in its advantage resulting in even better thermo compensation performance.

The information coming from internal specs from Seiko in Japanese, on the 8J and 9F movements, is universal, saying the 8J was the last “cost be damned” very robust movement they did. The internal feeling is the 9F is less robust, less accurate, less shielded, and, yes, some of them scoff at the lack of an independent hour hand with which one easily adjusts to other time zones on the 8J.

The very high accuracy +- 5 second twin quartz movements that went before were extremely expensive to produce and were not robust in field use. Their biggest problem was they tended to get fried if worn in hot baths or shower rooms - a real issue here in Japan where the harried salary man has his watch with him in the after work Sauna to benchmark the last train. The 8J was the answer to those concerns.

The Grand Seiko SBGF005 harks back to design characteristics of the seventies, for one the shape of the case. It is very reminiscent of Seiko’s crazy days, especially in the way in which the crown side is designed. It is just like some King Seiko Vanacs and of course the Red Alpinist, but more distinguished. Also, the three dimensional effect of those watches is present here, caused by applying the indexes, the SEIKO and the GS logo to an absolutely stunning effect. The hands are pencil style, what I like about that is the match of these design elements, the hands are at their centre about as thick as the hour indices, and where the minute hand meets up with the indices it overlaps just those and not the lume dots. Just great! And the seconds hand also "just overlaps", exactly the flat top part of the minute indices, leaving the sides open to glitter.

Sadly, the most disturbing and distracting aspect of “modern” Grand Seikos is a mismatch of the aforementioned design choices. The SBGX061, -059 etc. just do not speak to me as for instance the perfect harmony of a Grand Quartz 9940-8000 or the SBGF range.

Ok then, no critique? Well, one other defining feature of the SBGF005, the wide brushed bezel, may be more susceptible to scratches and scuffs than for instance the narrower, highly polished one on the SBGX061. But then again I notice the capped seconds hand, that ads to the luster that many of its 9F family members simply do not have.